… photos, that is, from 2024.






















Thanks for the memories, 2024. Happy 2025.
… photos, that is, from 2024.






















Thanks for the memories, 2024. Happy 2025.
Iceland is a fabulous country to visit and I have been a number of times, including during the turn of the millennium when the whole country put on a brilliant party.

Many people only visit Reykjavik and the nearby countryside for just three or four days but if you are thinking of a longer, more in-depth visit, here are some things to be aware of or to consider.
Although Iceland is not a member of the EU, it is a member of the European Free Trade Association and has non-voting but participatory status in a number of EU agencies and programs, including business, environment, education and research. It therefore can feel quite European although I find that Iceland is very decidedly itself, too.

Everyone speaks amazing English. It is the designated second language and Icelanders are very adept with it and have a high rate of fluency. Icelanders are also very polite and helpful, even though they must at times feel impatient with all the tourists. According to the UN, it is also the safest country in the world; at no time have I ever felt uncomfortable about my security while visiting.

The food is out of this world, especially the fish and seafood in general. We ate in a variety of restaurants from the high-end to the basic, and the food was always stellar. However, you will see horse meat on just about every menu as it’s a very common dish. Ditto lamb, as it’s also very common. On our drives through the countryside we saw many, many sheep but fewer cows; the ones we saw were mainly dairy cattle. Nevertheless, every menu has at least one beef dish.

Icelanders use a lot of eggs in their cooking, too, and in ways with which Canadians or Americans might be unfamiliar. For instance, I was served a sliced chicken breast sandwich that had chunks of hard boiled egg in it. I actually liked the combination, and especially the dipping sauce that came with it, but initially I was quite surprised. The beer is excellent as is the local gin and of course, good akvavit is also available.

The weather, ergo the wind. During our visit in June, many locals told us that their weather was unusually cold and stormy, and since they were headed for 24 hours of daylight or nearly so, their weather seemed unusual to me, too.

Having experienced the Northwest Territories for six years, I know that the midnight sun can really send the temperature quite high, well into the 20s or even low 30s, but Iceland definitely wasn’t experiencing that! The temperatures during our visit averaged around 12° (54F) or so; we had two days of 18° (64F). Given that geographically, Iceland is near the Arctic Circle – in fact, the Arctic Circle passes through a northern tip – it’s probably best to be prepared for all weathers, good and bad. Remember that in such a northern country spring arrives late and autumn arrives early, so it’s best to dress in lots of layers and to bring along good footwear, rainwear and an umbrella, too.

The wind can be a serious challenge, especially if you are at a higher elevation. Tourists are warned to watch the doors of their rental cars as the wind can literally take them off their hinges. When we visited a bird sanctuary, the wind was strong enough to send us flying, especially if we lost our footing. So come to think of it, make sure you bring along good windbreakers!

Driving is on the same side of the road as North America and Europe. We drove all around Iceland and didn’t see a single speed trap and only one highway patrol-type vehicle.
The Icelanders have employed other means to make people slow down, however. There are many rivers and all of them in the country have single-lane traffic bridges. Additionally, the road shoulders are very narrow and have considerable drop-offs.

Driving can be challenging, especially if you aren’t used to winter conditions. We drove through a major snowstorm on June 5, and even though we are seasoned winter drivers we found it difficult. The narrow roads dropped to snow-covered single-lanes and there were road closures, as well. The plowing and sanding were efficient, however, and closed roads re-opened quickly. We were glad we chose to rent a 4-wheel drive, though.
One other note: off roading is illegal in Iceland as it damages the environment. Fines for doing so are hefty and jail time can also be imposed. It’s important to remember that Icelanders take this prohibition very seriously. The F-roads are back country dirt roads that people can use only between July and September. A 4×4 is required for these roads but it’s important to remember that they are not to be used as access points for off-roading.

Iceland is expensive. Expect it and save for it. You will pay much more for lodging, meals, rentals and activities such as hot springs visits. One thing that you will not have to do is tip. Tips are already included in your bill as part of the VAT (Value Added Tax, which is anywhere from 11 – 24%). It may feel odd to not leave a tip, particularly in a restaurant, but it is considered somewhat rude to do so as servers might assume that you think they aren’t paid properly.
We avoided the very famous hot springs – the Blue Lagoon is the most famous of all but it was closed due to a nearby volcanic eruption – because they can be extremely expensive. The ones further away from Reykjavik and more off the beaten track are much more reasonable and also excellent.

The currency is the Icelandic króna. Icelanders use debit and credit cards; we didn’t see cash being used at all. We used a “no foreign transaction fee” card for everything which saved us from having to convert and was extremely practical. That said, the major tourist areas usually accept many different currencies.
I don’t usually do this but I am going to recommend the Berjaya Iceland Hotel chain as a clean, comfortable alternative to many other hotel offerings. This is a local chain with hotels all over the country at relatively reasonable prices (prices vary in Reykjavik) and most have restaurants or are within walking distance to restaurants.

A visit to Iceland is all about exploration of this country’s long seafaring and pioneering history, rugged geographical and geological beauties and stunning waterfalls (excellent food, too!), so be ready to do lots of walking and admiring and most of all, have fun!
While visiting Iceland earlier this month, we were caught in some bad weather just as we were slated to travel back to the south. You can read my last post about that here: https://lynettedartycross.com/2024/06/09/northern-icelandic-weather-part-i/
As I mentioned in that post, we were in for a bit of a surprise. We left Húsavík and while on our way to Akureyri thought that the weather was improving.

We had a booking for whale watching the next day, but during the night, the predicted storm started giving us quite a shellacking.

Awakened by the wind at about 3:00 a.m., M looked outside to check on the weather (that far north it was still light out) and saw that the snow was blowing parallel to the ground with gusts of about 80 km (50 miles). Our whale watching was a definite cancel, but we were worried about getting back to Reykjavik for the day after, and anxiously kept track of road conditions for the following 24 hours.

But none of what we were seeing on the Icelandic highway app was reassuring: gusts to 90 km (56 miles), ice pellets, snow, freezing rain, temperatures around +1-2C (33-35 F), completely perfect conditions for dangerously ice covered roads with obscured visibility.
We awoke bright and early the next morning to find that the main route – highway one – to the south was closed in at least two places.

We went to breakfast to drink coffee and to think this one through. There were things on our side. We’re very experienced in winter driving conditions and have literally seen it all, including driving through the Rocky Mountains during a December ice storm. We had rented a four-wheel drive manual which gave us some snow clearance and traction, and lastly, we had the time to drive very slowly.

We decided to take the chance: the road closure was 1.5 hours away, and we thought that clearing and sanding might have occurred by the time we got there, given that this is the main highway. We pulled out of Akureyri with a stockpile of trepidation and all the supplies we would need to wait out the storm in our vehicle if necessary.

At first, it wasn’t too bad, but then we had this:

The snow ruts were ice encrusted and caused pulling to the left or right if we had to move out of them. This is actually a two-lane highway, but with all the snow buildup, you wouldn’t know it.
When we arrived at the first closed section, snow clearing had already occurred and the road was open once more, but then we also started descending from the highlands, and within 30 minutes had much better conditions.

We were delighted to get out of that weather, and the further south we went, the better the weather became.

When we stopped to stretch our legs and pry our tense fingers off the steering wheel, we were even rewarded with a foss, or waterfall.

All’s well that ends well. Happy Friday.
On May 30, 2024, we left Reykjavik, Iceland, in our rental car and stopping frequently to admire our surroundings, had a leisurely drive to Geysir Hot Springs.

Since 1647, all geysers have been called after these geysirs in Haukadalur, Iceland. The word geysir means “to gush,” and that’s certainly what they do, very dramatically and heatedly!

The “original” geysir has erupted intermittently since the 13th century, but in more recent centuries it has stopped for years at a time; it is presently in a dormant state, but the nearby Strokker Geysir is still putting on a show.
This entire area is incredibly active with hot pools and much smaller geysirs everywhere.



I tried to get a burst set of photos of the Strokker eruption but there was a healthy crowd doing some pushing and squeezing causing the camera to be jostled at the last second, so I didn’t really make any great shots.

The Strokker Geysir erupts approximately every seven minutes and reaches about 60 metres (200 ft). It’s very impressive if quick.

Although it was about 12C (54F) out, the immediate area felt quite warm because of all the steam in the air.
Happy Monday.
We spent a few days enjoying the benefits of the Icelandic hot springs and could easily see visiting one of them regularly if we lived here. The waters are extremely soothing, especially if you have any skin conditions, and the effects of the warm water very relaxing.

However, as we enjoyed the Mývatn Lake hot springs near Reykjahlið in the north, we began to realise that bad weather was on the way.

After spending a comfortable night at a hotel in Reykjahlið, the next morning an employee warned us of an impending storm that was expected to arrive in the north during the course of the day, bringing freezing rain, ice pellets, gale force winds and possibly … snow.

We got going right away to our next stop, a hot springs spa in Húsavík, a town on the Greenland Sea, but the storm was beginning to settle in.

By the time we arrived for our appointment, the management of Geosea was considering closing because of the high winds, but decided to stay open when a lull occurred. Because we were within easy reach of our stop for the night in Akureyri, we stayed for our appointment.


The break in the storm meant that after our hot springs appointment, our short drive to Akureyri was fairly uneventful and lead us to believe that the storm might be abating, but we were in for a bit of a surprise.
Stay tuned for part two.
I found these rain-wet Icelandic azaleas growing in a garden in Reykjavik. I wasn’t expecting to see azaleas there, but in another pleasant Icelandic surprise, there they were!


I hope your Friday is in the pink!
As I have already indicated, Iceland has amazing diversity in its geography, but it is also diverse in many other ways, too.





Happy Wednesday.
12:26:

12:35:

12:40:

12:45:

12:50:

12:55:

A world of difference in 31 minutes – that’s the drama and the staggering beauty of Iceland.
Our last day along the southern Icelandic coast began with heavy mist …

… but the sun insisted on pushing through …

… to reveal beautiful blue fjords …

… and 18C (64F). Stunning.
We stopped to brave the cold, rain and extremely windy conditions of Dyrhólaey bird sanctuary and viewpoint on Iceland’s south coast. This sanctuary is on a high cliff overlooking the beaches far below.

This is the North Atlantic ocean and there is nothing between Iceland and the Horn of Africa – more precisely, the Horn’s interference is minor, so there’s not much between Iceland and Antarctica – stopping that wind, so it really gets up to incredible speeds.

M and I had a hard time keeping our feet, as did others; the wind literally almost sent me flying since it was about 65 kph (40 mph). There were few birds about; most were sheltering in the cliff crevices.

The beach is comprised of black volcanic sand, and we would have loved to take a walk along the trail to the beach, but the wind was just too strong. We opted to get back in the car – literally without breaking the door hinges – to admire the view in dry comfort as we ate our lunch. But what an incredibly picturesque view, even if the weather was terrible!