Commentary, nature, Photography

Island Hopping

24 Comments

Haida Gwaii is an archipelago of 150 islands, but it’s mainly comprised of two larger islands: Graham Island and Moresby Island.

Graham is the biggest and most populated of the two while Moresby is home to a small population, the airport with scheduled service and also to the Gwaii Haanas [“Islands of Beauty”] National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site, a federally protected area that shows evidence of Haida habitation from 13,000 years ago.

A 20 minute ferry ride connects Graham and Moresby Islands and is another chance to see more of Haida Gwaii’s breathtakingly beautiful scenery.

Earlier this year, the British Columbia government, through the Haida Gwaii Reconciliation Act, returned sovereignty of the islands to the Haida First Nation, the first time since 1787 that the Council of the Haida Nation has been functioning officially.

Because of its ecological diversity, Haida Gwaii is said to be the “Galapagos of the North.” It is home to a unique subspecies of bear as well as to the Haida ermine, animals that aren’t found anywhere else.

In the last two centuries, Haida Gwaii has had a very turbulent history as it contended with colonialism, newly introduced diseases, exploitation and racism, to name a few of the worst issues. The Haida Gwaii Reconciliation Act goes a long way to addressing many of these historical wrongs.

24 thoughts on “Island Hopping”

  1. Wow! Lynette, your beautiful post makes me want to hop on a boat to explore these aptly names Haida Gwaii islands. The look stunning and good to hear that past wrongs are finally starting to be out right!

    Liked by 3 people

    1. We fell in love with Haida Gwaii. The scenery is stunning and the people are warm and friendly. It’s also such a restful, calm place. If you visit, be prepared for rain, though. It is covered in dense rainforest and there’s lots of mist and fog.
      This FN Sovereignty Act is new ground for us although the foundation was laid by the Supreme Court in an earlier First Nation land claim (that hasn’t been completed yet). We are hopeful that it will work well.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Nothing like a blue sky and sparkling waters to make you appreciate life and circumstance. That is good news for the Haida First Nation. It will be interesting to see how well all these changes are integrated and what it means for HFN and for Canada. I assume that Canada is still providing money and resources under the Treaty. Happy Monday Lynette. Allan

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks, Allan. Everything I’ve read indicates that Haida Gwaii is now a sub-jurisdiction within BC but that not all the overlapping responsibilities have been sorted yet. My understanding is that the Haida mainly wanted control of the land so that the province or federal government can’t arbitrarily make decisions around mining or logging without the council’s permission. In the past, and even within the last few years, mining did terrible damage to the mollusk beds on the north shore, for instance. I would generally characterise the Haida as environmentalists.

      It will be interesting to see how everything gets sorted. The act itself has already been vetted by the Supreme Court because there was an earlier and similar case (involving a different FN) that went to them. That earlier case is now also in negotiation (in Manitoba). All services such as health care and education will continue to be provided by BC; I don’t think there was ever a federal government treaty in this instance as the islands were all claimed by the U.S., Russia and also the British Empire, with of course, no thought for the Haida, many of whom were displaced to the Prince Rupert area. Complicated history.

      Like

    1. The damage has been so profound, Tricia. Some FNs were able to get through it better than others. I worked alongside the Dene (to whom the Haida are related) in NWT for six years and they are encountering more difficulties than the Haida. There have been lots of so-called treaties through the years (especially the old colonial ones) that manipulated FNs to a criminal extent, but this Reconciliation Act is entirely different and is the first of its kind in Canada. There will be growing pains for sure, but yes, I hope it begins to redress some of the damage.

      Liked by 1 person

    1. I had not, Neil. It had been on my wish list for a long time, though. It is stunning and one of the most relaxing places on Earth, in my little opinion. The people are very friendly and laid back. I could easily live there. Cheers.

      Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you very much, Belinda. It’s not only the beautiful scenery but the vibe is completely different. Everyone seems to be very friendly, relaxed, laid back. M and I agreed that we could live there.

      Liked by 1 person

    1. We’re trying to redress some of these colonial wrongs and I was very supportive of my provincial government in finally doing so. They had to be forced into it because they didn’t like giving up control over crown lands, but since it was stolen in the first place, I’m glad they finally saw the better part of valour. Haida Gwaii had been on my travel wish list for a long time and it was a completely wonderful visit.

      Liked by 1 person

  8. I learnt so much from your post and all the comments. I hope it’s a big first step for the Haida Gwaiia and that it translates across the country into actions. Thanks for sharing the beauty of the place.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you very much, Bernie. I hope it is, too. It’s certainly precedent-setting and I think we will see more of this as time goes along.

      You’re welcome. It’s such a beautiful place and so relaxing, quiet and laid back. Everyone we met was so friendly. We are thinking of another trip in 2026.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Thanks for sharing the link to the Parks Canada site. I like how there was even a picture of the Haida Gwaii black bear. I couldn’t help but laugh at your comment about how the martens are overweight. It certainly sounds like a pretty good spot for the wildlife!

        Liked by 1 person

        1. I was astonished, Linda! I saw pictures (on a local’s phone) of a marten with a huge tummy and clearly overweight. A large part of the archipelago is protected with the expectation that further protections are coming given that the Haida now have sovereignty. Haida Gwaii will soon be a total haven for animals and birds.

          Liked by 1 person

Comments are closed.